33.  ANZACs, whaling and wind-farms, sea and summits.

More on this shortly.
Firstly to our ANZAC legends. 

Before we moved into the mountain stage of our travelling, we happened to be in Albany on the week of remembrance of the 100 years since the end of World War One.

Albany is the site of the departure of the two large ANZAC fleets to WW1 in 1914 with 41,000 sailing in the first two fleets.  The loss of life is staggering considering that over 60,000 were killed during the war.  Such a high percentage from a population of less than 5 million at the time.
Resulting from this, the town largely is centred around the ANZAC legacy.
By coincidence 60,000 people flocked to Albany for the 100 years service of the end of the war, and the centenary of the ANZACs.

The Padre White Lookout at the summit of Mount Clarence honours the man who arranged the first commemorative dawn service held in Albany on the 25th April, 1930 with the tradition gaining in strength every year.

ANZAC Memorial on the Padre White Lookout. 

Commanding view over the Princess Royal Harbour from which the two fleets sailed. 

The Mount Adelaide Lookout overlooks the harbour where the ships were moored and made ready for what so many saw as a great adventure, never to return.

We noted that the narrow passage below leading into the main harbour of Albany is called Ataturk Channel.  Upon seeing this we researched to find that in a reciprocal agreement in 1985 with the Turkish Government, the passage was renamed Ataturk Channel, whilst the beach in Gallipoli where the Australian and New Zealand troops landed became Anzac Cove.
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Looking out onto the natural harbour imagining the sight of 36 ships of the first ANZAC fleet.
Two more ships joined the fleet out from Fremantle to bring the number up to 38

The ships of the First Convoy in mooring positions on compass bearings from land points of reference. 

The second fleet as seen from this lookout. 

Meager defences

All is kept as a reminder of the past. 

The National ANZAC Centre honours the ANZACs of the First World War, in a modern building featuring the latest in depicting their story.

The names of 41,265 Australians and New Zealanders who left on the First and Second Fleets are recorded on a revolving list whereby the names seem to magically appear in water. 

The names come into fluid focus and move slowly along underwater. 

The names then disappear off the end of the watery screen directly in the same line as the ships would have taken in leaving the harbour.. 

136,000 horses were sent overseas to help the war effort, many belonging to the soldiers.
Only one returned. 

The Field of Lights Avenue of Honour, featuring 13,000 shining spheres in colours of white, yellow and gold, of the wattle of Australia, and the Kowhai of New Zealand.

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Away from the reflections of war, we ventured down the coast to Albany's wind farm, so apt as the wind never seems to stop blowing in WA.

Ideal location for a wind farm, with the sloping cliffs helping channel the wind. 

Brilliant coast, boardwalk, clean power.
What more could be asked for?

Wind vane for the wind farm showing a southerly is blowing. 

Wind vane showing change of wind direction to the east. 

Simply plant and add wind. 

In a light 7 kph breeze, the tip of the 34m wings are travelling at 130 kph.
A moderately strong wind of 50 kph produces a wing tip speed of  260 kph.

Fantastic natural power.

Whaling in Australia finished in 1978 when Albany Whaling Station ceased operations, ending 178 years of whaling out of Albany.
The Station is now a thought provoking reflection on how life once was for the whalers and how life ended for the whales.
The tanks, which once stored 750,000 litres of whale oil, now accommodate three theatres, one with a hologram play of the final day of the station closing.  All very well done.

Like a beached whale, one of a fleet of identical whalers.
A sister ship, the Cheynes II is aground in Albany harbour after having broken its mooring during a 1992 gale.
It is slowly breaking up. 

The now tranquil setting was once a scene of blood, blubber and guts, with countless sharks in a continuous feeding frenzy. 

All ship shape and appearing ready to go. 

The captain would always fire the harpoon.
The bridge from the bridge, or wheelhouse, would allow him quick access to the bow. 

Another aid to whale research, with tanks for 750,000 litres of whale oil. 

A 23m or 76 foot long 74 tonne pygmy blue whale which beached itself in Albany's Princess Royal Harbour in 1973, 

All is now peaceful in the bay and the decks are not bathed in blood.
On a clear day, the white cliffs of Dover can be seen in the distance.

Nearby Albany on the coast, the Torndirrup National Park features both man made and natural marvels.

Another great piece of architecture hanging over the gap. 

Counter-levered over the gap.  

Giant fingers reaching out distributing the load. 

Such turmoil below. 

Great washing machine action below. 

The wave runoff was mesmerising 

Only 150m away from the man-made marvel, a natural wonder. 

The coastline near the blowholes.
Unfortunately, the swell was not swell enough for the blowholes to perform. 

Jimmy Newells Harbour, named after Jimmy, a convict, was washed into the bay during the storm.
Once he served his time, he settled in the area. 

Salmon Holes.
From July to January, salmon holiday in this resort bay.
Three dolphins were patrolling just beyond the break trying to collect a meal. 

A great day to go fishing. 

Back to Middleton Beach just around the bay from Albany.

Middleton Beach with a floating shark net. 

This is the harbour which once accommodated the ANZAC fleets, lined up either side of the islands. 

Various speed bumps. 

Albany local, a King's Skink sporting a brilliant formal reptilian coat. 

The casual swagger as he strolled away would have done John Travolta proud. 

Different tailor, but still a brilliant sports coat of tans and browns. 

Porongurup National Park features one of the most amazing walks ever constructed; the Castle Rock Granite Skywalk, tackled after a climb of 92 staircases according to Carrol's Fitbit.  The skywalk (no relation to Luke) is a suspended walkway around the huge granite outcrop of Castle Rock.

A great stroll through the bush.
Great care has been put into this part of the track to ensure that concentration is required in foot placement. 

Dexterity required.
Classified as a Class 5 "walk." 

The handles looked awkward but were well placed. 

Seven metre ladder with protection against magpie attacks. 

WOW!!

The Stirling Ranges are on the horizon.
We tackle them tomorrow. 

How is this for quality!
Bolted straight into the granite.
Don't forget to take in the view. 

The overseer

Emergency exit.

The way down!
Descend the ladder then disappear into the dark void to the right. 

The Granite Skywalk zoomed in from several kilometres away.
Amazing!!

After the warm up walk of the 92 staircases the day before at Castle Rock, we took on Western Australia's 2nd highest peak, Bluff Knoll, which pushed the Fitbit to 202 staircases for the day.
We slept well that night.

Driving towards Bluff Knoll, the task looked daunting. 

The track goes down before it goes up, firstly heading to the left, then wrapping around to the right and over towards the saddle towards the top right, and up the back of the mountain.
This was the best we felt all day.

Onward and upward through some great Aussie bush. 

Morning tea
The temperature was in the mid 20s on the way up and high 20s on the way down. 

Step after step. 

We thought we heard "Go Carrol!",  then realised it was "Goanna"
It no doubt knows a great manicurist. 

We head up to the left of the two escarpments.  

Taking time to take in the scenery on the way up. 

The carpark is getting further away.
The car has disappeared. 

Endless folds

The final kilometre or so was all burnt out. 

Plains fading to the north. 

 Beauty in a burnt landscape.
Note the green shoots coming through. 

Finally to the summit.  We were there to enjoy the day and not treat it as a race.
A wonderful feeling with an amazing view.

Carrol celebrating reaching the summit. 

Awesome splendour.
The carpark can be seen below to the left. 

Don seeking a quicker way down to the car.
The question was asked half way down "Did the parachute get packed?" 

So worth the effort.  The view was brilliant.
The native flies were atrocious and put an end to our idea of lunch at the summit.
One fly can be seen in shot.  

The best view comes after the hardest climb. 

On top of the world.
(Almost)

Down was the only way and taking it easy was the plan, keeping in mind that more accidents happen going down from mountains than going up.

Going down!

Flying fox required. 

The track flattening out showing we must be near the end, and the Fitbit showing 304 staircases in two days, almost climbing the tallest building in the world twice.
Time to put the feet up!

To summit up we have had some tremendous, challenging and rewarding experiences in this part of Western Australia.  Truly worth the visit.

Trusting all is well as we head towards the East Coast of Australia, really starting to pick up our average distance per day to make Carrol's hair appointment.

God bless, Cheers,
Don and Carrol.