11 Darwin. Extremity of northward travel.

Charles Darwin and Beagle are synonymous. (As are Mathew Flinders and his pet cat Trim)
Driving into our caravan park in Darwin, a sign stated that no pets were allowed.
This made us reflect that if Charles Darwin, after whom the city of Darwin was named, happened to visit now, the Beagle he travelled with would not be allowed in.
This is evolving evolution!!

A Beagle
Would this have been similar to Darwin's Beagle?

Our time in Darwin has been more contemplative than most of our trip to date.
This is due to two major previous major impacts on Darwin.
The bombing in 1942, and Cyclone Tracy in 1974.

The bombing took Darwin and Australia by surprise, happening ten weeks after the Pearl Harbour bombing by the same attacking force.
Just before 10am on 19th February, 1942, 188 bombers unleashed over double the amount of bombs as on Pearl Harbour.
Two hours later another force of 54 bombers returned for a further onslaught.  At least 242 people died that day.
Darwin was sustained another 62 air raids, however none as devastating as that first day. 
So much of this was kept quiet through the war years to avoid panic for the rest of the Australian population.

We saw quite detailed displays at both the Royal Flying Doctor Display on the rebuilt jetty, and also at the East Point Military Museum.
Virtual Reality headsets brought it all to life.

Billboard on the rebuilt jetty

What chance did the meager defences have against 188 planes dropping such a barrage of bombs?

Emplacement for large shore based artillery 9.2" gun

Obsolete shore battery due to air craft carriers changing the mode of fighting by staying out of range

How could anyone escape this?  13mm steel shredded

Naval searchlight with a range of 25kms.
Reflecting on the futility of war ending lives and turning others upside down. 

Following the initial bombing and destruction of above ground storage tanks, 11 secret underground oil bunkers were planned to be built in the hill near the docks.  They have an internal width of 4.5m and a height of 5.4m.  Only 6 were completed by 1945 when peace was declared.  None of them were actually used to store oil until years later for a short time.  That is another story. 
Two have been reopened to the public in recent years.

Tunnels and piping entering the hill side.

Smaller entry/exit tunnel

Seepage has been a problem right from the start.

This storage tunnel is 172m long.

The East Point War Museum showed Australia's role in other conflicts around the world, featuring vehicles, uniforms, weapons and stories from the time.
Humour seemed to so often be used as relief as well as encouragement to sign up.

Leyland Ferret Scout Car.
Forerunner for the design of the Leyland P76

Old war vehicle integrating with tree.
The truck will not blow away, or drive away

The Darwin Museum featured many fine displays as well as reliving the effects of Cyclone Tracy in 1974.  Wind speeds of 240kms hour leading to 71 fatalities.
Tracy destroyed more than 70% of Darwin's buildings including 80% of houses.
From viewing the photographs, it is amazing the death toll was not far higher.

Corrugated iron, photos and voice recordings featured in the display. 

More than 25,000 out of the 47,000 inhabitants were left homeless.
30,000 people were evacuated. 

People always forget the severity.  It was noted that some of the requirements have eased in design ratings.
We feel underground shelters would be the only safe option 

The Darwin Museum also featured other great exhibits, including Sweetheart, who terrorised aluminium dinghies back in the 1970s. Two boats were capsized, however fortunately the crews managed to safely swim ashore. (They would have lost weight in the meantime.)
Sweetheart was trapped after a considerable time, however drowned during the process.

Sweetheart had a passion for outboard motors
A taxi-dermist provided transport - and attention to an underlying skin disorder.
Sweetheart felt stuffed afterwards.

Gouldian Finch.
Hours can be spent waiting for the perfect photo. 
If this bird wasn't superglued to the perch, precious time would have been wasted.

Something for everyone.
Most of the exhibits are static.  Others just wouldn't keep still.  

Mega jars for mega crabs and shells.
Taking the butterfly in the jar to another level

A Greek extravaganza was held highlighting the massive involvement in the top end.
About 600,000 Greek Australians live in Australia.
Most appeared to be at the extravaganza in Darwin.

This is the way to cook meat for the multitudes.
It would have been meals on wheels if the wheels had not been removed. 

πολλοί άνθρωποι, φαγητό και χορός 

Many different large dancing groups took to centre stage

Our feet have been having a fair workout, one day covering about 16kms around Darwin and surround, attaining our 26,000 steps. The fitbit was happy. The feet not so.

Recycling to the extreme

Popular Mindil Night Markets

Home delivered meal.
Unsuspecting folk on possible (?) crocodile mound at Mindil Beach.

Sunset at Mindil Beach

After a big day of trekking 16kms around Darwin and surrounds, explorer John Stuart indicates the way back to our car.
(We ended up walking another 3kms as he sent us in the wrong direction.)

Darwin has certainly shown resilience in surviving the horrific events it has weathered.
It has evolved into a thriving city, so different to the all other parts of the Northern Territory.

To discourage sun-baking, rocks have been added to the beach. This helps reduce skin cancers.
Crocodiles have been added to the water to discourage swimming, hence reducing drownings.
That is progress!

The car and van are now turned around, fuelled and ready to head south.
For the record, distance travelled since leaving home is 6536kms/68 days = 96.11kms/day. Within cooee of our expected 100kms/day, completely by chance. (We move when we feel the urge to do so!)

We now have roughly 4,500kms of afternoon sun coming in through the driver's window before we have to head East at Albany WA.  Lucky Carrol!!

Trusting all is well.
Happy travelling with your life.
Salutations,  Don and Carrol.