12. Winter Wonderland of Waterfalls, Wonders, Wanders and Wadings

Wayfaring into Berry Springs, an hour's drive south of Darwin, we reminisced how this was Don's Uncle George's favourite R&R location during the war years when he was stationed in Darwin.  We could see why it would have been such a great contrast in getting away from the war for a while.
A sign at the springs confirmed that this was favorite spot for the servicemen.

Berry Springs.  Beautiful could have been added to the name.  Berry Beautiful Springs.  Crystal clear water

Now she is afraid to come out of the water 
And I wonder what she's gonna do,
'Cause she's afraid to come out of the water.
And now the poor little girl's turning blue. 
Two, three, four, tell the people what she wore!

We could imagine this full of servicemen on R&R during the war. 

Persongo orchard in the Berry Springs area.
 Note:  Due to gender neutrality we have changed the fruit name Mango to Persongo

Litchfield National Park is totally different to Kakadu and features many great waterfalls and swimming areas.  Litchfield is run by the Northern Territory Government whilst Kadadu is run by the Federal Government.  Kakadu required a payment for a pass at $40 per adult/2 weeks, plus $12/night unpowered site.  Litchfield was free entry and $6.60/night per adult.

Protected Diamond Head Pythons are a road traffic hazard in Litchfield.

It is surprising the effort some males go to in order to impress a bird.
Don't flowers always work;  as well as being far easier?

Note the viewing perch in the top left of photos

Wangi Falls, no relation to Wangi Wangi, was our home for several days.
It is also pronounced Wang-eye and not Wonj-ee.

Our backyard pool for 4 days, just 100m from our camp.
The expectation was for the flow to cease at sundown to coincide with tourist viewing, however the flow continued
throughout the night. 

When I survey the awesome splendour.

There is a natural Jacuzzi to the right of the waterfall where the heads and shoulders of 2 people can be seen.
The Jacuzzi is about 1.8m in diameter and very deep.  The water is heated as it flows over the rocks. 

Daniel, a lone Ranger from the Northern Territory National Parks, gave us an informative tour of the Bamboo Creek Tin Mine which is within the NP.

A lone Ranger named Daniel

The Lone Ranger is never named.

Bamboo Creek Tin Mine operated between the years 1906 and mid 50s.
What a hard life they endured.  For the miner, the major issue was dust which eventually killed most who worked within the mine, as well as those involved in the processing of the tin.

If this was anywhere other than the NT, the mine would have been filled with concrete, plus have a barbed wire fence around.
NT motto must be Caveat Emptor.

 Chimney from the tin house ruins.
Note the bullet holes in the chimney.
Must have had problems with either possums or Santa Claus.

Processing shed.  Note the tin sheeting.

Three possibly lesser known points of interest.
1. The chemical symbol "Sn" for tin was not derived from the side effects. Sn: Seriously Nasily.
2. The miners did not have a pet dingo called Rin Tin Tin. (This is a rumour which has only just been started.)
3. The actual Sn comes from the Latin origin of Tin, "Stannum".  Incidentally, Don celebrated his eighth birthday when staying overnight at the Stannum Guest House in Tenterfield, NSW.   The mansion Stannum was built by a rich dude who made his money mining tin in the local area.  Sir Henry Parkes, Banjo Paterson and Dame Nellie Melba also stayed at the Stannum, but not on the same night as Don and his family (5 adults, 3 kids, no seat belts in a Falcon sedan travelling from Sydney to Brisbane) .



Walker Creek trek entailed a 1.5km stroll, covering 35 staircases by the fitbit and a temperature of 38C.  Summer would be unbearable.
The track ending rewarded us with a picture postcard setting stream and small waterfall offering a chance for a dip in the luke warm water.

Fantastic infinity edge pools

The thermometer told us 38C walking up here.
Imagine the heat in summer. 

2/chimneys, 1/ drop, no waiting.
This was perched out in the bush as if it had been dropped by a bird.

The final plunge pool rewarding a warm walk.

Always travel with a noodle.
Great for fighting fires, fending off magpies and crocodiles, as a roller if building pyramids, dyke plug if in Holland and general conversation starter.

After a 30km drive to an advertised informative talk with a Ranger at the main Termite site, a number of travellers as well as a group of school kiddies were initially left disappointed when the ranger failed to show.  When we suggested the teacher for the school kids give us all a talk, a parent travelling with the group stepped up and introduced himself.  He is a Senior Research Scientist with the CSIRO in the Northern Territory, and has studied and written extensively about the Northern Australian landscapes, vegetation, back burning and termites for 30 years. We couldn't have wished for more.
It surprises us how things just fall into place when we least expect them to.

Perspective of size

Nature's Dominoes.
Termites have it all worked out and we should take heed.
Their homes are made of partly digested plant material,  saliva and excrement.  All readily available, cheap and durable.

When the termites said they were hosting a party, they probably didn't have in mind an invasion party

And now for a nature exclusive update.

Flocks of Bittern Penguins from Antarctica fly into Litchfield NP for the Queen's Birthday long weekend celebrations each June. They are secretive birds so little is recorded about them. 
Revealing this information is a world first.

Note the insulated socks normally worn by penguins are removed for the weekend.

Mosquitoes as seen around eye and head target others apart from Carrol.

Waterfalls in abundance.

Incredible Tolmer Falls 

Tolmer Falls Lookout and Ferry Terminal.
The ferry terminal is in readiness for a sea level rise of 120m.

Bronze Aussies at Buley Rockhole having lost swimmers.

Bronze Aussie in Darwin having lost mates and battles, but won wars and respect.

Florence Falls

Florence Falls zoomed in.
Holding nose due to atmospheric air pressure difference in descending from a considerable height; so often experienced during flights.

Our home pool, Wangi Falls

And finally, more great advice when choosing something from the menu.

We are continuing to meet some fantastic fellow travellers, Rangers, shop keepers, CSIRO scientists; and chance upon unplanned events as we go.

Drive slow and enjoy the scenery!
Drive fast and become part of the scenery!!

Wishing all the best.
Happy travels, God bless,
Don and Carrol.

11 Darwin. Extremity of northward travel.

Charles Darwin and Beagle are synonymous. (As are Mathew Flinders and his pet cat Trim)
Driving into our caravan park in Darwin, a sign stated that no pets were allowed.
This made us reflect that if Charles Darwin, after whom the city of Darwin was named, happened to visit now, the Beagle he travelled with would not be allowed in.
This is evolving evolution!!

A Beagle
Would this have been similar to Darwin's Beagle?

Our time in Darwin has been more contemplative than most of our trip to date.
This is due to two major previous major impacts on Darwin.
The bombing in 1942, and Cyclone Tracy in 1974.

The bombing took Darwin and Australia by surprise, happening ten weeks after the Pearl Harbour bombing by the same attacking force.
Just before 10am on 19th February, 1942, 188 bombers unleashed over double the amount of bombs as on Pearl Harbour.
Two hours later another force of 54 bombers returned for a further onslaught.  At least 242 people died that day.
Darwin was sustained another 62 air raids, however none as devastating as that first day. 
So much of this was kept quiet through the war years to avoid panic for the rest of the Australian population.

We saw quite detailed displays at both the Royal Flying Doctor Display on the rebuilt jetty, and also at the East Point Military Museum.
Virtual Reality headsets brought it all to life.

Billboard on the rebuilt jetty

What chance did the meager defences have against 188 planes dropping such a barrage of bombs?

Emplacement for large shore based artillery 9.2" gun

Obsolete shore battery due to air craft carriers changing the mode of fighting by staying out of range

How could anyone escape this?  13mm steel shredded

Naval searchlight with a range of 25kms.
Reflecting on the futility of war ending lives and turning others upside down. 

Following the initial bombing and destruction of above ground storage tanks, 11 secret underground oil bunkers were planned to be built in the hill near the docks.  They have an internal width of 4.5m and a height of 5.4m.  Only 6 were completed by 1945 when peace was declared.  None of them were actually used to store oil until years later for a short time.  That is another story. 
Two have been reopened to the public in recent years.

Tunnels and piping entering the hill side.

Smaller entry/exit tunnel

Seepage has been a problem right from the start.

This storage tunnel is 172m long.

The East Point War Museum showed Australia's role in other conflicts around the world, featuring vehicles, uniforms, weapons and stories from the time.
Humour seemed to so often be used as relief as well as encouragement to sign up.

Leyland Ferret Scout Car.
Forerunner for the design of the Leyland P76

Old war vehicle integrating with tree.
The truck will not blow away, or drive away

The Darwin Museum featured many fine displays as well as reliving the effects of Cyclone Tracy in 1974.  Wind speeds of 240kms hour leading to 71 fatalities.
Tracy destroyed more than 70% of Darwin's buildings including 80% of houses.
From viewing the photographs, it is amazing the death toll was not far higher.

Corrugated iron, photos and voice recordings featured in the display. 

More than 25,000 out of the 47,000 inhabitants were left homeless.
30,000 people were evacuated. 

People always forget the severity.  It was noted that some of the requirements have eased in design ratings.
We feel underground shelters would be the only safe option 

The Darwin Museum also featured other great exhibits, including Sweetheart, who terrorised aluminium dinghies back in the 1970s. Two boats were capsized, however fortunately the crews managed to safely swim ashore. (They would have lost weight in the meantime.)
Sweetheart was trapped after a considerable time, however drowned during the process.

Sweetheart had a passion for outboard motors
A taxi-dermist provided transport - and attention to an underlying skin disorder.
Sweetheart felt stuffed afterwards.

Gouldian Finch.
Hours can be spent waiting for the perfect photo. 
If this bird wasn't superglued to the perch, precious time would have been wasted.

Something for everyone.
Most of the exhibits are static.  Others just wouldn't keep still.  

Mega jars for mega crabs and shells.
Taking the butterfly in the jar to another level

A Greek extravaganza was held highlighting the massive involvement in the top end.
About 600,000 Greek Australians live in Australia.
Most appeared to be at the extravaganza in Darwin.

This is the way to cook meat for the multitudes.
It would have been meals on wheels if the wheels had not been removed. 

πολλοί άνθρωποι, φαγητό και χορός 

Many different large dancing groups took to centre stage

Our feet have been having a fair workout, one day covering about 16kms around Darwin and surround, attaining our 26,000 steps. The fitbit was happy. The feet not so.

Recycling to the extreme

Popular Mindil Night Markets

Home delivered meal.
Unsuspecting folk on possible (?) crocodile mound at Mindil Beach.

Sunset at Mindil Beach

After a big day of trekking 16kms around Darwin and surrounds, explorer John Stuart indicates the way back to our car.
(We ended up walking another 3kms as he sent us in the wrong direction.)

Darwin has certainly shown resilience in surviving the horrific events it has weathered.
It has evolved into a thriving city, so different to the all other parts of the Northern Territory.

To discourage sun-baking, rocks have been added to the beach. This helps reduce skin cancers.
Crocodiles have been added to the water to discourage swimming, hence reducing drownings.
That is progress!

The car and van are now turned around, fuelled and ready to head south.
For the record, distance travelled since leaving home is 6536kms/68 days = 96.11kms/day. Within cooee of our expected 100kms/day, completely by chance. (We move when we feel the urge to do so!)

We now have roughly 4,500kms of afternoon sun coming in through the driver's window before we have to head East at Albany WA.  Lucky Carrol!!

Trusting all is well.
Happy travelling with your life.
Salutations,  Don and Carrol.