10. Kakadun and dusted!!!    They said to Kakadu so we Kakadid!!

Kakadu presented great days with temperatures in the low thirties, and nights of mosquitoes in the high hundreds. 
The artwork dating back thousands of years took the guernsey for the most impressive feature.
Dulux and British Paints should take note as to how to make paint finishes last longer before repainting is required.

Some of  the art work dating back to the dream-time must have been a nightmare due to the substrate and available painting materials 

Obesity was not an issue

Red Kangaroo. Eastern Greys are not local to the area

It was incredible how so much of the signage by National Parks giving information of the artworks could not be read due to deterioration, however the art work has stood for hundreds or thousands of years.

Combined art gallery, kitchen and bedroom

The views from up high of the escarpments and into Arnhem Land were also high on the list of impressive features.

Colours of the rocks are impressive under different light conditions

Looking into Arnhem Land. The land appeared to be looking back. 

The three Alligator Rivers (West, South and East) were possibly so named by Lieutenant King as he couldn't either pronounce or spell Crocadial.
We took a boat ride on the East Alligator River under the guidance of a young Arnhem Land local by the name of Hilton. Hilton gave us all a great understanding of the traditional way of life,  even allowing us to step off the boat into Arnhem Land for about 30 minutes to a secluded billabong and to get away from the river.
He also amazed us all with the distance he threw his spears aided by a woomera.  If these were allowed as an Olympic sport, much larger stadiums would be required.

Looking peaceful, but all would change if an attempt to swim the river was attempted. 

150 salties live in this 400m stretch of river.
They make great pets for those having problems with  neighbour's dogs or cats entering their backyards.

A deadly log just sliding past.
Stepping stone to shore if quick enough 

Captain Hilton

Stepping ashore in Arnhem Land with special permission, with a big step away from the boat..
We are not sure why we were given life jacket  and emergency exit instruction.
 No one would be putting even a toe in the water, no matter what!!

Captain Hilton showed his ability with spear and woomera. Very impressive

Cahills Crossing is a spectator sport where folk line up to watch two different activities at the one location.
The first is to watch fishermen pulling in barramundi as they dice with death by standing in water or on rocks within striking distance of crocodiles on either side of the causeway, waiting for the change of tide to bring a new food supply.
The second is the crossing of cars into Arnhem Land, again an incredibly dangerous challenge as evidenced by the two cars washed downstream into the crocodile infested waters.
YouTube has many videos of the challenges.

Viewing platform of Cahllls Crossing into Arnhem Land
(Petite girl 2nd from right looks as if she had her legs taken off by croc on a  previous fishing expedition) 

A fisherman lost his life a few years ago when taken by a croc standing in the exact location as the chap with the hat.
All seem oblivious to the danger in the water, ready to strike. 

Security car parking.
No one has gone near these cars since they were parked in current positions.
Burley standing on sand bank on distant beach. 

Falcon impersonating crocodile on the crossing; although crocs normally travel at right angles to direction of travel.

Barramundi sent back after photo. Need to be min 55cm and max 90cm.  Backs are turned to any approaching danger.
The barramundi in these waters suffer from unusually high stress levels 

Kakadu is also home of 68 mammals (almost 20% of Australian mammals) however we only saw three walabies (the jumping ones, not the running type wearing green and gold) and one little rodent fellow.
It is also home to more than 120 reptiles of which we saw five salties and just 3 small lizards. Nothing else in the whole time we were in the park!!!
The lack of animals is hard to comprehend.  We noted when driving the 190km in through the park to our campsite how little road kill there was compared to elsewhere we have been, and saw only two wallabies and one cat during the 500km travelled in the park.
They might just have other places to go, and have no interest in populated areas or roads.
Fires are burning all through the park continuously, giving a smokey haze to obscure the distant views.  Perhaps too many have been barbecued.
Of the 10,000 different species of insects that call Kakadu home, all except 8 visited our van. 

This could be the reason for shortage of visible animals.
Buffalo on the shooting list this week.
Macropods next week.

Barbecued marsupials and reptiles a specialty

It was so disappointing to read this sign as desperately wanted to take our car through here

A few good treks were accomplished along the way keeping the steps up over the 10,000 and the number of staircases one day exceeding 50.  The views were good, but on a clear day would have been magnificent. Carrol's injuries are recovering well.

Mirrai Lookout providing excellent views of tree tops and smoke after climb equal to 50 flights of stairs.

Kakadu through smoke haze

Arnhem Land to the east on an almost clear day

MA 15+

Carrol is very adept in ascending and descending steep, slippery,  rocky uneven tracks.
Not so confident on urban concrete footpaths outside pubs.
The good elbow is in shot. 

Treks up to Ubirr for sunsets before stumbling back in the dark were a necessity in Kakadu.
At least the 40km drive home was safe from animals due their absence in the region.

Custom designed and  built grandstand for sunset viewing.

Redhead Bluff in the distance

Getting an all over tan. Currently working on the backs. 

Life as viewed through rose coloured glasses

Mamukala Wetlands bird hide provided a great safe opportunity in seeing birds and water lillies without the fear of losing a leg, or worse still, a wife.

A bird hide is so different to a cow hide.  

Solitary Egret standing all by himself due to the old saying "Don't live your  life with egrets!".

Sitting ducks

A rose by any other name would smell just as sweet

Tall poppy syndrome

We also met Russell who dropped by for a drink.

                   Russell taking a drink                         
(Too much drink impairs focus)

Russell crowing about the evils of excessive drink

It was finally out of Kakadu and NW for the final venture north before we run out of land and need  to turn and head back down the continent.

Whoopty Doo!!
Toured Kakadu, shopped  Humpty Doo, avoiding Doggy Doo.

Onward northward before heading south, west, south, east and north east.

Keep well.
Travelling on, Don and Carrol.

9. Kakadu became Kadadon't.

Plans on seeing Edith Falls followed by entry into the  Kakadu National Park were put on hold for several days after Carrol had a collision with the pavement outside the Katherine Hotel. (She blended into the environment well despite her groceries scattered around)
More on that later.

Camp Drafting at the Mataranka Never Never Festival was another case of being in the right place at the right time.
It gave us a chance slip on the RM Williams jeans, tuck in the checkered shirt, fit the belt with the massive buckle; then to sit on a fence, chew grass, be covered in dust again; and watch the skill of the cow-persons (gender neutral) and cattle trying to outdo each other.

A battle of wits and skill in following a set course around the paddock

Competition where solo riders compete as to who can create the most dust

Doing donuts without fear of the car being impounded.

Horse traffic jamb. Awaiting turn in the campdraft

Yee haaa!!!!
Either practicing for the bucking broncos or trying to align hat with head

After a long day in the saddle, even the shadows become long.
 Due to all the dust, yelling and yahooing, we left for home feeling hoarse

The tenacity of termites to build nests wherever they get the urge is to be applauded.

Treated timber is considered a treat by termites

Matthew 7:24-27

Termites are evidently contracted to provide fence posts.
Electric fences can provide much excitement in the mound

Nitmiluk National Park featuring Katherine Gorge, is a string of 13 deep gorges over a length of 12km, with walls up to 90m high.    The rocks are some of the oldest in Australia, but are  holding their age well.
We cruised up three gorges requiring a short walk between each.
In the wet season, the flow of the gorge can fill Sydney Harbour in two and a half hours. (Newcastle's Throsby Creek and Lake Macquarie's Cockle Creek could also fill Sydney Harbour, but this would take much longer)

Impressive Katherine Gorge.
At full flood flow can fill Sydney Harbour in just over 2 1/2 hours

Saltwater Crocodile trap. We didn't wan't to know what the bait was

The view would look incredibly different in full flood

Complete with sandy beaches for crocodile basking

10,000 year old artwork
One day, graffiti on train carriages might be seen as art rather than the vandalism it is  

Shopping list showing bush potatoes in gorge opposite. 

Both Freshwater and Saltwater Crocodiles inhabit the lower gorges.
Freshwater crocs' diet consists of eating a variety of invertebrate and vertebrate prey, including crustaceans, insects, spiders, fishes, frogs, turtles, lizards, snakes, birds and mammals.
Saltwater crocs, as we were advised, have a varied diet of inebriated German and US backpackers.

We had a swim at the croc free Lilly Pond, followed by a shower under a 70m waterfall.
Despite being assured  the pond was croc free, we still completed a stock-take of body parts after swimming.

Freshwater croc posing as a cold blooded killer

Said to be non-threatening to humans as they only tackle meals that can be swallowed whole.
They still look threatening though. 

Pace was slowed for three nights in the small town of Pine Creek to allow Carrol time to heal after taking a tumble outside the Katherine Hotel.
We had separated in Katherine for Don to top up with diesel and gas, whilst Carrol was re-stocking the larder.
Loaded up with bags of groceries, Carrol tripped over a protruding piece of concrete on the footpath.
She managed to save most of the groceries by protecting them with her knees and one elbow and one hand.
Fortunately, no breaks, just a lot of skin left on the pavement.

We cleaned out the wounds and carried on up the highway, before deciding on Plan B and heading to Pine Creek to put the feet up and have a more informed medical check.
For future reference, tourists should not injure themselves, and if they do, go to a major hospital and not interrupt the quiet life due to no other patients being in the local centre.
We don't think the sister in charge was appreciative of our financial injection of three nights' accommodation, food and drink, donation to their local football star fundraiser plus attendance and voting at the annual arts festival.
Tropical bacterium from soil is another reason why tourists should not injure themselves. 

Tourists should not damage themselves then expect to be patched up.
(We picked up this vibe)

Discrimination against males is still evident in Pine Creek

Electronic mail is now available through Post Office Boxes

A quiet stroll through the town revealed that although Pine Creek is disconnected from any current railway lines, it was of  major importance in the early days.
During the later war years, up to 147 trains per week were operating.  Don's Uncle George no doubt passed through this way en-route to being stationed in Darwin in those years.

The Water Park in Pine Creek featured a warning about fresh water crocs. 

Well preserved Pine Creek train to no-where

When we read this, we could not see what was funny about it; until we realised it read historical, not hysterical 

A final piece of advice:

When questioning yourself of whether to have that pie or extra piece of cake, remember this!

Recuperation is over now, and hence we will be moving on to Kakadu.
Keep well. Eat pie.
Cheers,  Don and Carrol.


We move into Kakadu next,