Wednesday, August 1, 2018


16. Sweeping towards Broome WA through Gorges, Stations and Caves.

Here we are back after quite a while off air, having been away from civilisation and internet experiencing and photographing some mind blowing areas of the Kimberley both on land and at sea.
As a result, we will hopefully be publishing a few blogs in shorter succession to catch up the backlog.

The size of Australia is staggering and surprises so many of the foreign tourists we have encountered. The following photo shows the comparative size to Europe.



Leaving Kununurra, time was spent idling South West, seeing some of the  El Questro sights; with stays at roadhouses and stations whilst enjoying some out of the way settings.
Crossing the Pentecost River into El Questro Station.

Emma Gorge, El Questro

No time was spent in any of the towns across to Broome apart from refuelling and stores due to regular reports of theft from caravans in the towns.
This resulted in some brilliant out of the way station stays with cattle and endless sunsets, roadhouses and free camps, including one camp in an old RAAF quarry.
Doon Doon Roadhouse outlook
Tranquility in the quiet life.
Even the fence post blended in with the colours.

Spring Creek Free Camp
Just don't go near the water!!

Snapped out the car window.

Love birds, one a little shy!!

Being chased by a dust storm!!

After a hard day's work, a drink is shared.
Branch meeting of Explorer's Compass birds.
These face E, SSE, NW, and S. 

What am I and where am I going??


Heading home (or herding home) after a long day on the hoof!
Typical view on road to the RAAF Quarry Camp.

Limited dusty view from the camera mounted on the back of the van.
The bike needs some TLC, however the bell still sounds great. 

The target of Geikie Gorge was set by our Geologist friend Alan.  Hence we obliged and were impressed.
Geikie Gorge is part of an ancient barrier reef that developed during the Devonian Period.  Tunnel Creek Caves also featured in this blog are part of the same reef system.
The gorge is approximately 20km from Fitzroy Crossing.
.
The lighter colours show flood levels.

Flooding regularly filled the vast sandy flood plain upon which we stood, stretching back hundreds of metres.
The main picnic area can be inundated by up to 8m of flood water. 

Mega-fauna petrified/fossilised/ossified turtle??

Impressive weathering

Perfect swallow nests

Time was spent reflecting on these marvelous formations.



Logadile


Croc on a rock.
And we thought they liked sandy beaches!

We started our day not knowing what a Spelunker was, however within a couple of hours we had become Spelunkers and even possibly Speleologists.
Tunnel Creek Caves were well worth the 220km of dirt and dust to venture in.
Torches, wading gear, along with a lack of fear of freshwater crocodiles and bats were the order of the day for the trek into the 750m long Tunnel Creek Cave system.

After climbing over boulders to gain access, this mind blowing scene presented itself.

Truly wonderful colours, light and shade; and a sense of journeying into the unknown.

Brilliant architecture and lighting

The torch light was absorbed by the darkness.
Large low ceiling with no visible means of support.

The flash of the camera illuminated the area far better than our head torches.
Venturing into the gloom.

A bright idea!!

Half way along the cave, a hole in the ceiling allows light and air to enter. 

The natural light looked totally unnatural.

Rocky base due to the cave-in many years ago required careful stepping.
 Cricket Bat which has been allowed to dry out due to lack of maintenance.
Regular application of linseed oil is a must. 

There is always light at the end of the tunnel.
John 1:5

Out at the far end to a different scene altogether.

The view back in for the return trip.

A simple floor contrasted by an elaborate high ceiling.

Shadows pointing the way back in.

We sensed we were being watched!
The red glows are the eyes of  fresh-water crocodiles cloaked behind a stalactite curtain and darkness.

Back out to daylight 




And finally a quick quiz from Ellendale Station where we camped by a billabong for a couple of nights in an idyllic relaxing Aussie setting.

Spot the odd one out.


The camp at Ellendale Station is a wonderful setting that provides a large billabong and roughly about 100 sites for self contained vans and campers in an idyllic setting.
Many thanks must go to the station for allowing all to enjoy this great part of Australia.

We continue our sweep towards Broome for some dusting off in a somewhat maritime environment.

Trusting all is well, and thanks for sharing our experiences.
Best wishes, Don and Carrol




Saturday, July 14, 2018

15 HUMBLED BY THE BUNGLE BUNGLE GEOLOGICAL MARVELS.

Unanimously, everyone we spoke to who had driven into Purnululu National Park to see the Bungle Bungles strongly suggested that the road was the worst they had ever endured anywhere in Australia, with corrugations, washouts, twists and turns. As one, they all said not to attempt the drive in.
A few options were available, with our final choice being a flight from Kununurra, drive and walk into the Cathedral Gorge, 18 minute helicopter flight, then flight back to Kununurra.  All achieved in the one day.
Caravan with wings.
Caravan is ironically the model of the Cessna aircraft.
Pre-flight selection of pilot, co-pilot, cabin crew and wing walker.
A replacement wing walker was necessary for the return flight.  

Flying from Kununurra took us over the Ord River Irrigation Area which had origins dating back to the 1960s.
This area is something Don remembers learning about in the 1965 4th Class of Mr Parker.  Mr Parker had an unbridled passion for geography; so much of his geographical enthusiasm has remained with Don.
It just goes to show the impact a teacher can have!
Other teachers also had impacts, however these were mainly by cane on both hands and once on the back of the bare legs.
The dam to Lake Argyle is Australia's most efficient dam in regards to dam wall size compared to storage capacity.
An uneven patchwork quilt


Take note of the comparatively arid hills in the distance.
The mighty Ord producing mangoes, citrus, watermelons, rockmelons, sandalwood and many other crops.


We followed the Ord River as well as a secondary stream to Lake Argyle, being advised the overflow stream in times of flood exceeds all international safety ratings for rafting.
This mere stream can be a Rio Grande in times of flood.

Lake Argyle is 18 times the size of Sydney Harbour, covers an area of 980 km2, a volume of 11,000 gigalitres and has enough water to keep our back yard pool topped up for several years even allowing for evaporation, global warming and the fluctuating dollar. 
The early explorers were about 150 years too late in finding an inland sea.
There have been endless debates as to why Crocodile Island was named as such.

The mountain ranges on the way to the Bungle Bungles were rugged, with many looking like giant cresting waves.
Long cresting waves.

Bungle Bungles, so unlike anything seen before.
First glimpse from afar.


Landing at Bellburn International Airport.
The potholes in the dirt had been filled and kangaroos herded away.
Upon landing at Bellburn International Airport security teams analyse airline and airport security protocols whilst others brief the pilot on the dangers of cane toads roosting on the ailerons.


Guides met us for a short drive followed by a walk into the Cathedral Gorge.
More conjecture as to how Elephant Rock got its name.
These were possibly a left over from the days of Gondwana Land when land masses were connected.

Our 1.5km walk from Piccinini Carpark at 33C temperature concluded in a refreshing 21C in the Cathedral.
Rugged beauty


Colour consultants were used to ensure signs blended with backdrop.
For some obscure reason our guide quite dressed as, and capably re-enacted Peter O'Toole in  the 1962 epic
"Lawrence of Arabia"
We stood in the sun for the full 3 hours 48 minutes running time before giving a standing ovation.
Only blind white folk were permitted along this path.

Cathedral Gorge lived up to its name in majesty and size.
During the wet, a massive waterfall pours into the gorge creating a whirlpool and making the task where we sat for our lunch rather difficult unless soup was being consumed from a sealed container.
Cathedral proportions
Baptismal font in foreground

Luncheon in the choir stalls


To gauge size, the dots at the base of the rock to the left are people.
The dark staining is from water still flowing in lesser quantities down the large overhang. 


Our lives passed before our eyes as we experienced a helicopter ride over the Bungle Bungles on a rather blustery afternoon.
Some quick elevation, followed by flight at 150kph, no doors and hanging on as if your life depended upon it.  The buffeting felt as if we were dangling on the end of a whip.



Not a flight for those with acrophobia.

Looking down on the Bungles.

83 knots/154kph without doors.
Hanging on!!


Some massive canyons


It is difficult to appreciate the size of these marvels.

Rising up to 300m above the plains.

 Bungles fronting the Tanami Desert.
Sand blasting erosion is from this direction.


The pilot showed his skills in almost barrel rolling the helicopter, seriously testing Carrol's seat belt.
Doors would have prevented a bad hair day.


Back to Terra Firma, or Terror Confirmed, and onto the fixed wing for the flight back to Kununurra flying over a different track further west; circling over the Argyle Diamond Mine.


The green appeared as if green icing sugar had been sprinkled over a troubled land.

More cresting waves.

The westering sun highlighted the rugged terrain.

Diamonds are a girl's best friend, however mainly men work in the mine.


The Argyle Diamond Mine "cut" into the landscape with its lake showing "colour", but missing out somewhat on "clarity", due to the window pane and unfortunately no "carats" could be seen from this altitude. 

Blue and green should never be seen except in the Kimberley.

Back to Kununurra where we started 600km earlier in the day!!


Our pilot was assured that we were on board as emergency co-pilots having had spent 20 minutes in an Airbus flight simulator; and had even piloted the plane under the Golden Gate Bridge, something she hadn't.

As the sun sets on the western plane and plain it is time to call it a day.


All in all, a tremendous day's outing without destroying the car on the rugged roads.

Travel well in whatever you are doing.
We are continuing in a SW direction.

Cheers, Don and Carrol