14. Changing state from a Territorian to a Westralian.

Everything in NT and WA is large, starting with the distances between anywhere, to the animals and birds, termite mounds and finally the trees.
A sense of scale was evident when studying the size of the Boab tree to the site shed along side.
We estimate from the site shed sitting at its base, that 15 site sheds would need to be stacked on top of each other in order to reach the top.  (And that is a metric, not imperial site shed.)

Sense of scale.
We estimate the Boab tree is about 15 site sheds high. 

As we were about to leave NT, we were recommended Zebra Rock Mine Campsite, 10kms off the hard top, in secluded bush near the border and the edge of Lake Argyle.
Zebra Rock is a geological marvel showing lines, bubbles and a superb range of colours, being cut into slabs for tables; or sculptured into all manner of forms.

Sculptured samples of Zebra Rock as mined on site.
A 75kg snail would suit most mantelpieces.

Hence 2 days off the grid again and a chance to cruise on the flood plains fronting the lake.  Lake Argyle was flooded in 1963, however trees still stand as a major navigational hazard to the unwary.

Our transport; hopefully designed to withstand semi-submerged tree trunks at speed.
Collisions are recorded in the log book.

Bird of Prey
Head bowed as if in silent prayer.

The Magnificent Seven
(2018 remake)

Freshies have finer snouts than salties.
We were advised they are generally harmless, however if provoked can take an arm off quicker and cleaner than a
Great White Shark.
Harmless and armless seem to contradict each other.

Happy Croc with Brolgas in background.

The expression "running around like a headless chook" has been superseded.
"Flying like a headless Magpie Goose" is all the go now!

As the sun sets, the mood of the recently flooded flood plains took upon a new atmosphere altogether.

The trees added to the mystique of the area.

In the wet season, water covers this area. 

Idling back up the various streams to the camp brought some wonderful colours.

The play of the light on the water was mesmerising.

The reflections were alive.

The trees became ballerinas gracefully changing form.
Most were just as thin. 

The border crossing required a stop and check to ensure fruit and vegetables along with honey are not carried across.
Just prior to the border, we delighted six men at the Zebra camp travelling West to East when we supplemented their diet with honey and avocado.  Being blokes, they had mainly survived on baked beans for the last few weeks.

7900km to the WA border since leaving home.
87days
91km/day ave

Kununurra and Wyndham are the eastern most and northern most towns in WA, and are just 100km apart.  We saw them both in the one day.
Western Australia would not be as vast if the most western and southern towns were so close.

Wyndham Community Fishing Jetty
Designed to cope with 8m tides.
Built due to pier pressure.

Brahminy Kite
This one was cruising around the jetty trying to collect anything left by the fishermen.

I think I can!!
Looked like being straight from the pages of a Little Golden Book.

End of the line at Wyndham.

A study in perspective.
The sense of scale as mentioned previously.

Who is a pretty boy??

With an impressive hair-do!

A drive up to the Five Rivers Lookout at 330m above the surrounding plains allows great viewing of the expanse of water and the five rivers; the Durack, Pentecost, King, Forrest and Ord.

Water water everywhere.
Five Rivers
8m tidal range
Crop circles can just be seen on a near salt pan.

Now that is a tidal flat!

Crop circles on salt pan.
These phenomena have appeared in various parts of the world leading to endless conspiracy theories, books and intrigue as to how they are formed. 

Marlgu Billabong was sought in order to find the elusive Gouldian Finch that we have been seeking. Hence more dirt and an exhilarating drive towards the end of the day zig zagging through 200mm deep bull dust on a narrow windy track for about 200m ensuring that momentum and direction was not lost.
We were quite relieved once we found hard surface again, especially with night fall approaching.

Like a shag on a rock.
No wonder he wants to show off his outfit

Panic!!
The cacophony as hundreds of birds suddenly took off filling the air with the roar of flapping and feathers.

Ahh the beauty!
And to think birds land and walk on these lillies without sinking.

Blending in with the environment. 

Testing the water.

Perfection

Any comments on bird types, or even Lilly and flower types would again be greatly appreciated.
So many birds seem to have such a range of colours and plumage, we find it jolly difficult in confirming the types.  We just know for certain that some look absolutely stunning!!

Back to Kununurra and preparation for the Bungle Bungles super adventure by plane, 4WD bus, foot, chopper and plane all in one day.
This will be the next blog all as a full "exclusive" solely on this Geological marvel unlike any other landscape we have seen to date.

Wishing all fair winds and a following sea!!
Don and Carrol

13.  The Territory continues to marvel, as sights are set on new territories further west.

Bundy Station covering an area over 500,000 acres supplied us with some great views of livestock of all sorts, plus a chance to refill with water after 5 days off the grid.
We also heard first hand how crocodiles don't take any nonsense from dogs, with a barking dog being lost to a croc after the dog got too carried away with barking and not concentrating on foot.  The dog and its owners learnt a valuable lesson about how quickly crocs can strike.

Laugh like nobody is watching

Become embarrassed when you realise they are. 

Bumper to bumper traffic
Bull bar required at the back

Why the long face?
Depression is a serious issue in many rural areas with often the final outcome for many being 1.2 to 2.4 times that of  urban areas.
Raising public awareness and education at school level are some of the campaigns attempting to bring the level down.
Lifeline 13 11 14
Beyond Blue  1300 22 4636

More than a face lift is required.
A family pet!

Backing up to clean those difficult to reach areas.

Bundy Station also had some other unique features.

Buffalo bar design for our next vehicle.
The buffalo bar used for encouraging buffalo to move from one paddock to another.
Horses and motorbikes are not used.

Cyclone proof windmill.
Almost a flush. (Four spades, just needed one more spade.)

Not out of Africa. Out of Northern Territory 

The Stymphalian Bird of Greek mythology.
They are man-eating birds with beaks of bronze (or rusting steel), sharp metallic feathers they could launch at their victims, and poisonous dung.

Edith Falls has a wonderful reputation for being the place to set up camp, and is generally booked out by late morning, with pre-bookings not being possible.
Hence an early start to cover the 180km to the park, booking in to a prime camping location just before 10am.

After swimming twice the 150m to the falls, we didn't try a third after hearing the ranger say that sometimes saltwater crocodiles can remain undetected for months, as well as going up to a year between meals.

Another sign mentioned to avoid swimming between 7pm and 7am due to feeding time.
 They are out there!!
It doesn't give much confidence, but makes for quicker swimming.

Blending in with the environment.
Note the left hand lifted. 

Beautiful plumage!!
The bird on the right had two suitors pushing it further along the branch to the right.
(We don't know what the birds are.  Any ideas please??)

The Gouldian Finch from Blog 11 in the Darwin Museum was superglued to the perch as exhibit No.8.
Exhibit No.40 at Edith Falls is more free spirited and could come and go at will.

A great walk to the top falls gave more security for swimming, with crocodiles apparently being unable to scale the falls.

One of the mid falls at Edith Falls

When Don offered to throw her camera to a Chinese girl on the central rocks near the falls to take a selfie.
She said he was hummus.
He was feeling like a thick paste, but didn't realise he looked like it.

Emergency call station. 
These are located in some remote areas of the park.

Our own personal emergency device, weighing in at 250g.
A great insurance policy for under $300 one up fee for up to 10 years.
Plus being able to be found anywhere in the world.
If all folk going bush and out to sea had one of these, millions of dollars in search and rescue would be saved.  

Didgeridoo Tree.
We once thought that more work was involved in making a didgeridoo.
(There is also a french horn didgeridoo)

Views from our campsite.

Pacific Baza (Crested Hawk).
What a great looking bird!
Nice vest!!

Green tree ant nest

Watching the grass grow with Portuguese man o' wars. (Blue bottles) 

A talk by the Ranger at Edith Falls highlighted the main changes to the animal kingdom is the way cats and cane toads are changing the balance.
Cane toads can kill a 4.5m crocodile, or any other animal or bird just by being eaten. Perhaps we should all be armed with fence palings with 4inch nails through the bottom to help with eradication. Don's cousins on the Sunshine Coast practice this type of pest control.

Cane toad turning Don off his early morning swim earlier at Bundy Station

Crows have worked out how to turn over cane toads and eat the non-poisonous parts, plus some animals such as quolls are being trained in laboratories, by being fed small amounts of cane toads in order to make them sick.  They are then let out in the wild in the hope that they will train their young to avoid.

Heading south west, we stopped at Timber Creek, which has a population of about 250 and a police district covering the size of Tasmania.
Here we took a boat trip down the Victoria River for some incredible croc, eagle and sunset sightings.
The far side of the river is the Bradshaw Military Training Area, encompassing an area of 8,700 km2. Quite an area to become lost in with many hidden dangers.

Relaxing in the sun, but ready to either slide into the water without a ripple, or simply explode into action. 

Acting cool

A toothy grin with ever watching eyes.

The tail looks every bit a prehistoric weapon itself.

Hawks and Eagles put on quite a show.
The  Eagle looked just as formidable as the crocs, showing the hawks very much who is boss.

Easy meal from the tray for this sea eagle. 

Little Eagle
The epitome of showing power and style.

The sunset over the Bradshaw Military Training Area was impressive, with the best show saved for our trip back up the river in the last rays of daylight.  The ranges are all army territory, used as a training ground.

The sun setting not over a mountain range, but a rifle range. 

Bradshaw Military Training Area as night approaches

The high speed voyage back up the river in the fading light was an absolute delight in looking over the stern of the 42 passenger ferry, being pushed along by 400hp of outboard motors.

Superb beauty above the waterline
Incredible danger below

Tranquility, except for the drum of 2 x 200hp outboard motors

The Victoria River is up to 1000m wide in some parts.
Suitable for decent size powerboats, not recommended for capsizing sailing boats.

Beautiful but dangerous

Having readied ourselves in carefully packing and refuelling and are all set to take on Western Australia.
The Northern Territory has been a great experience with great sights, beautiful vistas on sunset, warm winter and an outdoor lifestyle.
As good as it is to be given awards, we are grateful we haven't been awarded a Darwin Award during our time in the north.

Loaded and watered ready to leave the security of the NT for WA. 

All packed and set for our journey west with possibly one more stop to consume fruit and vegies before entering mighty Western Australia, which covers 33% of Australia.

Happy travelling wherever you are heading!!

Next time we should be in Western Australia.

Cheers, Don and Carrol.