7. Royal Wedding Edition. Top of Queensland heading North West. Almost out of the Sunshine State.

Disappointment was the emotion as we left the main Dinosaur/Fossil area of Australia.
We had gone there following a report of a good surf running on the inland sea.
Apparently the report was 110 million years out of date.  Hence time to move on!

Fossil of Plesiosaur at Richmond QLD.  One of the best in the world at 98% complete.
Possibly due to his extreme age, he was feeling a little flat this day.

Plesiosaur in better days.  Note the distinct lack of inland sea.

The more we travel, the more we realise how much there is to see, and how genuine most people are when time is given for a simple chat.

With every vehicle we pass travelling in the opposite direction, a wave is the accepted norm.  Only a small number do not give the wave, and we feel guilty when concentration on something else  means a driver going the opposite direction does not get a return wave.

Nelia is a dot on the map, 80km west of Richmond, 1km off the highway, and from our research, sported a population of 10, 1 cow, 2 turkeys and 3 steel sculptured Brolgas.

Out on the plain, the Brolgas are rusting .......

In keeping with our policy of trying to do something to support the local trade wherever we go, we walked into the shop at Nelia, after edging past the cow, to by buy an ice-cream.  The shop keeper came racing through her house and welcomed us, as she had seen our van and thought we were going to be the first of the season to stay in her 8 site caravan park backyard. She was happy though that we bought something.  We don't know how often this would have happened with folk turning off a 110km/hour road onto a small non-descript side road.  It is amazing how some places survive.
In a similar situation of slow patronage, Don took a swim on the Sunday and Monday at the immaculate Richmond Pool (knocking over 2500m each swim), but was intrigued to be told that no other swimmer had been along on either day.  The locals find it too cool, so the pool is kept open simply for the occasional tourist.  (Don has been described a lot of things, but never occasional.)

Enquiring about dairy products at Nelia.  Chain saw required for beef products

Live streaming is not restricted to sporting events at Nelia. (Study the photo!)

Ever changing landscapes and counting termite mounds keeps the driver awake; along with the chance to watch the cricket along the way.

Watching the cricket at 98kms/hr.
The cricket hung on for a 30km before pulling stumps and disappearing.

The best free camp in Australia is said to be at Julia Creek, where we decided to stop after the day just seemed to slip away; also after a much appreciated pub meal for lunch after the kitchen had closed and reopened for us.
The camp is on the banks of Julia Creek, by coincidence, the same name as the nearby town.
Camp volunteer hosts were present to register all, give local advice, and lend out colourful pushbikes to ride into town.  Vans have to be self sufficient with shower, toilet and grey water storage capacity. Happy hour saw most on of the travellers gathered under the shade of billabong trees, on the banks of the creek.  Wonderful quick friendships are so often formed under such impromptu settings.
A courtesy bus collects campers on a Monday evening to transport them to the council run caravan park in town for a weekly roast dinner for all who want to buy a great country cooked meal.

Julia Creek free camp. No 1 in Australia

Grenouille pour le dîner 

A quiet reed before breakfast

Since being on the new travel diet, Don had become a shadow of his former self

We have become members of the Cracked Earth Society.  Still haven't found the other thong!

Free use of bikes provided by the council for campers to ride into town and spend money.
Some councils are so pro-active in attracting the tourist dollar.  Others have not got a clue. 

The Dunnart is an endangered marsupial featured in a special display at Julia Creek.  An awareness program is being carried out in order to raise funds for enclosures and to see to their survival in the wild.
On the endangered marsupial menu, if the Bilby as mentioned in BLOG # 4  is the main course, the Dunnart is the entree, measuring only 90mm in total body length.
Dunnarts are incredibly agile little mouse-like marsupials, which despite their small size, travel about 10km a night.  Their main diet are beetles, crickets, cockroaches and spiders.
They dislike cats and foxes.

Endangered Dunnart. Entree size meal on the endangered marsupial menu

Bird life is abundant out west.  Most so different to the coastal varieties.
Black hawks by the dozen are the main birds encountered when driving.  They do a brilliant job in clearing the road kill off the road, and are generally very good in timing their exit from a carcass to avoid the same fate.  Once hit by a car, they can become a fete:

fete Meaning in the Cambridge English Dictionary

https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/fete

fete definition: 1. a public event, often held outside, where you can take part in competitions and buy small things and food, often organized to collect money for a ...

All reads correct for fete as above, except no money is exchanged. The competition comes from other scavengers.

Apostle birds around our campsite  Note there are 12 of them. 

Mum and Dad looking after junior 

Crested Pigeon learning that looking good does not mean an invitation to the banquet with the Apostle birds

A great free camp was enjoyed at Lake Corella where we spent 2 nights off the grid on the shore of the lake in company with some other off the gridders.  We spent our time reading, knitting and tandem riding around the surrounding dirt roads and bush tracks.  The tyre replacement worked well and held together.

Morning view from the west wing

Dam
I have lost my stoker?

Knit one, purl one 

Will he wag tail?

Where is my dinner?  Carrol in the galley.  Off the grid living

Voyeur's view of van and lake

For those interested in statistics on costs of such a holiday as ours, as noted we in BLOG # 1, we are looking at a trip of about 25,000km in 252 days, which equates to 99.2km/day.   By absolute coincidence, at the time of writing, we took note of our mileage and expenses to date based on the number of days and the distance travelled since leaving home.
In summary, we have covered 3790km in 38 days, which is unbeleivably 99.2km/day.  (If only all estimates could be that good!!)
Expenditure on fuel averages under $25/ day, and accommodation runs in under $21/ night (with a mix of caravan parks, low cost, and free camps).  (Not including food etc, as we would be eating wherever we are.)
In other words, after the initial investment of car and van, about $46/ day or $322/ week.
Yet another coincidence is that the 322 bus route runs through Kahibah.

In other news:

               Image 5000 years hence of  Uluru/Ayres Rock

Burke and Wills Memorial.
Don's parents also crossed here back in  May 1993,  25 years to the week earlier than us.

Which tower will stand the test of time? 

Who you gonna call was the question we asked when ourselves when considering whether or not to visit the ghost town of Mary Kathleen.  The town was deserted back in 1984, with all buildings removed leaving only the streets and slabs, shrubs and trees.  It was quite surreal driving through the town.
The water supply for the town came from Lake Corella where we camped the previous two nights.
The town had a population of up to 1200.
Mary Kathleen mine produced about 12000 tonnes of Uranium Oxide, with 31 million tonnes of ore being extracted.
Since visiting Mary Kathleen, we no longer need lighting in the car or van as we both emit a glow which lights up a 450m radius.

Entrance to Mary Kathleen

Curb and guttering, footpaths, slabs; and no crowd

Trevi Fountain in the outback

Photo of same fountain dating back to the 50s or 60s 

Road maintenance priority is similar to Lake Macquarie

Reasonably high clearance is a must

What a shock after the tranquility of the bush!
The City of Mount Isa is the 8th largest city in the world, covering an area in excess of 43,000km, with Camooweal 190km away, giving the longest main street between suburbs.
In the lead up to arriving here, radio ads were giving advice on using special cloths to wipe up lead dust from the mining and smelting, as well as washing pets before allowing them inside the house etc. Sounds like Sulphide Corporation and BHP issues all being relived again, simply relying on a good dusting cloth to remedy.
Incidentally, we counted 7 primary schools in the Mt Isa.  This reflects the substantial number on minors in town.

Ah the serenity of the outback

Mt Isa barber shop advertising pole

The town borders up against the mine

There are some positive aspects to living in Mount Isa.

We note we are closer to the equator than to Hobart. 
This is due to northerly continental drift and Tasmania being cast adrift once more.

Lake Moondarra.  Water supply for the Isa

Incognito Meghan Markle and Prince Harry sharing a pre-wedding getaway down-under
(Their trip no doubt a tax deduction due to visiting the Royal Flying Doctor Service and RSPCA)  

Puff breasted whistling duck swimming on thickly reeded billabong

Migrating salt water crocodile showing severe signs of stress due to too much lead dust and not enough salt water 

The Underground WW2 hospital adjacent to the current hospital was quite astounding.  We had a cupper with a lovely volunteer manning, or womanning the display to share her vast knowledge.
It would be great if work for the dole or such schemes could encourage younger folk to become involved.  This would have a two pronged advantage; helping  promote and preserve such valuable icons of the past; as well as giving the aide something very worthwhile for a resume' and  future employer.

Mt Isa WW2 underground hospital

Note the selection of bed pans.
We have followed suit and have discarded the chemical toilet for these. 

Much of the timber is original, even in the supports and roof timbers

Nurse shortages were evident. 

We have changed somewhat in recent days, much like a pregnant lady, as we  are glowing and increasing weight.
The glowing from the radiation of Mary Kathleen and the weight from the lead fall-out from Mt Isa.
We will however, before leaving Mt Isa, be decked out in our best camping gear for the Royal wedding, provided Harry and Meghan manage to get back to the UK in time for the event.

This is worth committing to memory 

Just before we go:

There was movement at the station, for the word had passed around 

This way or that?

As the sun sets on Lake Moondarra and this blog ............

It is now time to head along the longest suburban street in the world, 190km to the outer suburb of Camooweal, before taking on the Northern Territory.

Keep well.
Cheers, Don and Carrol

6. The Dinosaur Way and into the Gulf catchment area.

We would like to thank all who have sent comments and emails  regarding our posts.  It is great that some pleasure is being given, and that some of the political incorrectness and accidental/deliberate  mistakes are appreciated, if not winced at.  In many cases, memories are being rekindled.

Overnighting along the Flinders Highway at Crawford Creek, we were entertained by flocks of Budgies. Beautiful, but noisy, and too flighty to photograph properly. We would have loved to have trapped and shipped some back home, but decided against this as Budgie Smugglers get such bad press these days.

Budgie watching from fly net hide before being driven inside by the incessant buzzing of flies 

Our travelling grass was easier to photograph than budgies.  We regularly swap the sides of the van for the grass, as the grass is always greener on the other side. Also far softer than gravel and cat's eyes before footwear is applied. 

The journey continues NW into Dinosaur/Fossil territory, being classified as the fossil centre of Australia, with Winton as it's capital. (We are too young to be classified as travelling fossils.)  The flies are the worst we have ever encountered, making eating outside virtually impossible.
Wilton opened it's Waltzing Matilda Centre last week after the previous display burnt to the ground. The new display is modern and high tech.  Somewhat different to Banjo's day.

As a youth, Banjo wanted to be renamed Double Bass once he reached maturity

Image of view from the bottom of  the billabong looking up at the coolabah tree; as seen by the once jolly swagman

High tech vertical lines.  Possibly representing the many lines of verse Banjo Paterson wrote?

The Lark Quarry and Dinosaur Stampede is an outstanding complex, with an air conditioned structure built over the only known preserved dinosaur stampede site in the world.
Remarkable landscape, with fly nets a must for trekking around the area.

220km round trip from Winton to the Stampede, 130km on dirt.  Dropping tyre pressure to 32lb gave a softer ride. 

Eat my dust

A vision splendid.  For the drover's life has pleasures that the townfolk never know.

Lark Quarry and Dinosaur Stampede complex

Aficionados of fashion

No flies on me!

Dinosaurs were no doubt running away from flies

The small footprints were in opposite direction to the large ones.  Best form of defence due to turning ability. 

Inflation after the dirt

It was then back to Winton and out to the Age of Dinosaurs Museum and workshops where all manner of  fossils found are being worked on.  Fossil digs are regularly organised.

Dinner.  Note fly meteor about to bring about climate change

Showing use of claws.  More effective than T Rex

Dinosaur dugout.  The workshop is full of solid molds built in the field around chunks of rock;  ready for careful extraction of the fossils with dentistry type tools.

Brass dinosaurs.  They preceded brass monkeys by millions of years before the cooler weather.

I love a sunburnt country, a land of sweeping plains.

It's behind you!!

Swimming is sadly lacking.  Virtually every town pool is closed for the winter, despite temperatures in the low 30s.  I had the honour of being the last person to swim in the Wilton pool before it closed for the season, getting into the pool an hour before close, as its only swimmer.  The water temp was 25C and beautiful.

Checking the wine is fly free

Horizon sloping down to the south as seen from Mt Walker.  Further south, the gradient gets much steeper

All down hill to Hughenden.  Kangaroo danger time.

Cloud formations during drive to Hughenden, buffeted by head wind, rained upon by low flying grass hoppers, and 210km driving NE without any bends or turns.

The long and not so winding road with stunning clouds.  Don's brother Ian took the top view of this cloud formation when flying on this day to Townsville, somewhat nearby. 

Porcupine Gorge NE of Hughenden provided the opportunity for a walk and swim.  (The gorge is similar to the Grand Canyon, but possibly wider and deeper). The layers of rock in the gorge are a geologists treasure trove with very distinct layering.
Down at the bottom, we had a swim in refreshing fresh water with a sandy beach and great back drop of the gorgeous gorge.
We needed another swim when we finally climbed back out, but opted out due to the need to walk back down.

Porcupine Gorge.  Similar to the Grand Canyon with more rock wallabies and porcupines

Swimming hole is below the pyramid structure 2/3 to the right

Geologists cooling off pool

By George, the gorge was gorgeous

Swimming pool and beach at base of Pyramid 

Incidentally, a couple of other interesting things along the way.

CARniverous cattle

Western Wandering Wombats

We were entertained for hours by this merry-go-round despite power not connected and hence lights not working.

Patch

Intertwined Ebony and Ivory trees

Richmond has a bi-annual Outback Fossil Fest that happened to coincide with us rolling into town.  Rodeo on the Friday night, Street Parade on Saturday morning, Bush Sprints in the arvo, and a Party in the Paddock together with Fireworks on Saturday night.  The whole town turned out, a great time had by all.

A lot of bull

Brilliant horsemanship by these two throughout the night.  Horse and rider acting as one

Hang on Cyril!!

Years of camera training were required to capture this blurred image.  Aussie, Aussie, Aussie

Richmond Outback Fossil Fest street parade.  Scary stuff.

Pony club dinosaur entry

Note the unsuspecting bait on line out front

Richmond State School entry 

The Richmond Bi-Annual Bush Sprints were a mix of fashion, horses and dust. Great atmosphere.
Horses and riders are restricted to come from within a 200km radius, plus have no real racing history.

Preparing to race

Fashion at the track

Fashion in the stands. Standing room only

Nearing the post

Dusty aftermath plus incredilbe excitement in the stands

We arrived in Richmond for one night and stayed for four nights.
The final two features were as follows.

Sunrise over Richmond's man-made Lake Fred Tritton.  The rule is for all water sports to be performed in an anti-clockwise direction with which we will be familiar with in a few months

Filling the overhead bucket.  The button can be pushed at anytime to operate the water park which is in an open parkland area

We now move out of dinosaur territory meandering west along the Flinders Highway and leaving Queensland's longest river, the Flinders River as it meanders to the Gulf.

Keep well and enjoy the journey
Cheers, Don and Carrol.