15 HUMBLED BY THE BUNGLE BUNGLE GEOLOGICAL MARVELS.

Unanimously, everyone we spoke to who had driven into Purnululu National Park to see the Bungle Bungles strongly suggested that the road was the worst they had ever endured anywhere in Australia, with corrugations, washouts, twists and turns. As one, they all said not to attempt the drive in.
A few options were available, with our final choice being a flight from Kununurra, drive and walk into the Cathedral Gorge, 18 minute helicopter flight, then flight back to Kununurra.  All achieved in the one day.

Caravan with wings.
Caravan is ironically the model of the Cessna aircraft.
Pre-flight selection of pilot, co-pilot, cabin crew and wing walker.
A replacement wing walker was necessary for the return flight.  

Flying from Kununurra took us over the Ord River Irrigation Area which had origins dating back to the 1960s.
This area is something Don remembers learning about in the 1965 4th Class of Mr Parker.  Mr Parker had an unbridled passion for geography; so much of his geographical enthusiasm has remained with Don.
It just goes to show the impact a teacher can have!
Other teachers also had impacts, however these were mainly by cane on both hands and once on the back of the bare legs.
The dam to Lake Argyle is Australia's most efficient dam in regards to dam wall size compared to storage capacity.

An uneven patchwork quilt

Take note of the comparatively arid hills in the distance.

The mighty Ord producing mangoes, citrus, watermelons, rockmelons, sandalwood and many other crops.

We followed the Ord River as well as a secondary stream to Lake Argyle, being advised the overflow stream in times of flood exceeds all international safety ratings for rafting.

This mere stream can be a Rio Grande in times of flood.

Lake Argyle is 18 times the size of Sydney Harbour, covers an area of 980 km2, a volume of 11,000 gigalitres and has enough water to keep our back yard pool topped up for several years even allowing for evaporation, global warming and the fluctuating dollar. 

The early explorers were about 150 years too late in finding an inland sea.

There have been endless debates as to why Crocodile Island was named as such.

The mountain ranges on the way to the Bungle Bungles were rugged, with many looking like giant cresting waves.

Long cresting waves.

Bungle Bungles, so unlike anything seen before.

First glimpse from afar.

Landing at Bellburn International Airport.
The potholes in the dirt had been filled and kangaroos herded away.

Upon landing at Bellburn International Airport security teams analyse airline and airport security protocols whilst others brief the pilot on the dangers of cane toads roosting on the ailerons.

Guides met us for a short drive followed by a walk into the Cathedral Gorge.

More conjecture as to how Elephant Rock got its name.
These were possibly a left over from the days of Gondwana Land when land masses were connected.

Our 1.5km walk from Piccinini Carpark at 33C temperature concluded in a refreshing 21C in the Cathedral.

Rugged beauty

Colour consultants were used to ensure signs blended with backdrop.

For some obscure reason our guide quite dressed as, and capably re-enacted Peter O'Toole in  the 1962 epic
"Lawrence of Arabia"
We stood in the sun for the full 3 hours 48 minutes running time before giving a standing ovation.

Only blind white folk were permitted along this path.

Cathedral Gorge lived up to its name in majesty and size.
During the wet, a massive waterfall pours into the gorge creating a whirlpool and making the task where we sat for our lunch rather difficult unless soup was being consumed from a sealed container.

Cathedral proportions
Baptismal font in foreground

Luncheon in the choir stalls

To gauge size, the dots at the base of the rock to the left are people.
The dark staining is from water still flowing in lesser quantities down the large overhang. 

Our lives passed before our eyes as we experienced a helicopter ride over the Bungle Bungles on a rather blustery afternoon.
Some quick elevation, followed by flight at 150kph, no doors and hanging on as if your life depended upon it.  The buffeting felt as if we were dangling on the end of a whip.

Not a flight for those with acrophobia.

Looking down on the Bungles.

83 knots/154kph without doors.

Hanging on!!

Some massive canyons

It is difficult to appreciate the size of these marvels.

Rising up to 300m above the plains.

 Bungles fronting the Tanami Desert.
Sand blasting erosion is from this direction.

The pilot showed his skills in almost barrel rolling the helicopter, seriously testing Carrol's seat belt.

Doors would have prevented a bad hair day.

Back to Terra Firma, or Terror Confirmed, and onto the fixed wing for the flight back to Kununurra flying over a different track further west; circling over the Argyle Diamond Mine.

The green appeared as if green icing sugar had been sprinkled over a troubled land.

More cresting waves.

The westering sun highlighted the rugged terrain.

Diamonds are a girl's best friend, however mainly men work in the mine.

The Argyle Diamond Mine "cut" into the landscape with its lake showing "colour", but missing out somewhat on "clarity", due to the window pane and unfortunately no "carats" could be seen from this altitude. 

Blue and green should never be seen except in the Kimberley.

Back to Kununurra where we started 600km earlier in the day!!

Our pilot was assured that we were on board as emergency co-pilots having had spent 20 minutes in an Airbus flight simulator; and had even piloted the plane under the Golden Gate Bridge, something she hadn't.

As the sun sets on the western plane and plain it is time to call it a day.

All in all, a tremendous day's outing without destroying the car on the rugged roads.

Travel well in whatever you are doing.
We are continuing in a SW direction.

Cheers, Don and Carrol

14. Changing state from a Territorian to a Westralian.

Everything in NT and WA is large, starting with the distances between anywhere, to the animals and birds, termite mounds and finally the trees.
A sense of scale was evident when studying the size of the Boab tree to the site shed along side.
We estimate from the site shed sitting at its base, that 15 site sheds would need to be stacked on top of each other in order to reach the top.  (And that is a metric, not imperial site shed.)

Sense of scale.
We estimate the Boab tree is about 15 site sheds high. 

As we were about to leave NT, we were recommended Zebra Rock Mine Campsite, 10kms off the hard top, in secluded bush near the border and the edge of Lake Argyle.
Zebra Rock is a geological marvel showing lines, bubbles and a superb range of colours, being cut into slabs for tables; or sculptured into all manner of forms.

Sculptured samples of Zebra Rock as mined on site.
A 75kg snail would suit most mantelpieces.

Hence 2 days off the grid again and a chance to cruise on the flood plains fronting the lake.  Lake Argyle was flooded in 1963, however trees still stand as a major navigational hazard to the unwary.

Our transport; hopefully designed to withstand semi-submerged tree trunks at speed.
Collisions are recorded in the log book.

Bird of Prey
Head bowed as if in silent prayer.

The Magnificent Seven
(2018 remake)

Freshies have finer snouts than salties.
We were advised they are generally harmless, however if provoked can take an arm off quicker and cleaner than a
Great White Shark.
Harmless and armless seem to contradict each other.

Happy Croc with Brolgas in background.

The expression "running around like a headless chook" has been superseded.
"Flying like a headless Magpie Goose" is all the go now!

As the sun sets, the mood of the recently flooded flood plains took upon a new atmosphere altogether.

The trees added to the mystique of the area.

In the wet season, water covers this area. 

Idling back up the various streams to the camp brought some wonderful colours.

The play of the light on the water was mesmerising.

The reflections were alive.

The trees became ballerinas gracefully changing form.
Most were just as thin. 

The border crossing required a stop and check to ensure fruit and vegetables along with honey are not carried across.
Just prior to the border, we delighted six men at the Zebra camp travelling West to East when we supplemented their diet with honey and avocado.  Being blokes, they had mainly survived on baked beans for the last few weeks.

7900km to the WA border since leaving home.
87days
91km/day ave

Kununurra and Wyndham are the eastern most and northern most towns in WA, and are just 100km apart.  We saw them both in the one day.
Western Australia would not be as vast if the most western and southern towns were so close.

Wyndham Community Fishing Jetty
Designed to cope with 8m tides.
Built due to pier pressure.

Brahminy Kite
This one was cruising around the jetty trying to collect anything left by the fishermen.

I think I can!!
Looked like being straight from the pages of a Little Golden Book.

End of the line at Wyndham.

A study in perspective.
The sense of scale as mentioned previously.

Who is a pretty boy??

With an impressive hair-do!

A drive up to the Five Rivers Lookout at 330m above the surrounding plains allows great viewing of the expanse of water and the five rivers; the Durack, Pentecost, King, Forrest and Ord.

Water water everywhere.
Five Rivers
8m tidal range
Crop circles can just be seen on a near salt pan.

Now that is a tidal flat!

Crop circles on salt pan.
These phenomena have appeared in various parts of the world leading to endless conspiracy theories, books and intrigue as to how they are formed. 

Marlgu Billabong was sought in order to find the elusive Gouldian Finch that we have been seeking. Hence more dirt and an exhilarating drive towards the end of the day zig zagging through 200mm deep bull dust on a narrow windy track for about 200m ensuring that momentum and direction was not lost.
We were quite relieved once we found hard surface again, especially with night fall approaching.

Like a shag on a rock.
No wonder he wants to show off his outfit

Panic!!
The cacophony as hundreds of birds suddenly took off filling the air with the roar of flapping and feathers.

Ahh the beauty!
And to think birds land and walk on these lillies without sinking.

Blending in with the environment. 

Testing the water.

Perfection

Any comments on bird types, or even Lilly and flower types would again be greatly appreciated.
So many birds seem to have such a range of colours and plumage, we find it jolly difficult in confirming the types.  We just know for certain that some look absolutely stunning!!

Back to Kununurra and preparation for the Bungle Bungles super adventure by plane, 4WD bus, foot, chopper and plane all in one day.
This will be the next blog all as a full "exclusive" solely on this Geological marvel unlike any other landscape we have seen to date.

Wishing all fair winds and a following sea!!
Don and Carrol