8. Northern Territory. You will never never know if you never never go!!!

The Never Never advertising campaign of 1992 -1994 has done it's job here we are in the 3rd largest federal division in Australia; with only half the population of Tasmania.
Our journey to the border first though!

As anyone who has experienced wind whilst driving knows, it can affect different people in different ways.
We were so fortunate during our NW drive from Mt Isa to Camooweal that the wind, which had blown continuously for several days, was blowing hard from the SE, giving us a dream run and pushing us along.
Meanwhile those heading against it were suffering.  There was a report of a new van and 4WD capsized when caught unawares by a cross-wind; and another driver we spoke to was advised by the dealer in Mt Isa that his vehicle, which had all warning lights on and was struggling, was not designed for driving into head winds.  He was advised to park and wait for the wind to abate or change direction.

A beautiful day for a drive 

Hence we opted to travel with the top down despite the wind.  The flies still had to be waved away  

Don remembers studying Camooweal in 5th form (Year 11) in high school, and learnt that the annual rainfall was 10in per year.  Now Wikipedia states the rainfall as 15.7in,
This presents a dilema as to whether Don remembers the wrong figure, was taught the wrong figure, that Wikepedia has the wrong figure, that rainfall has increased 50%  in the last 46 years, or that no one gives two hoots what the Camooweal rainfall is.

Campsite at Camooweal Billabong

Reminiscent of that great 1963 Sidney Poitier film:  Lillies of the Rice Paddy

Sat by a ................ under the shade of a .................   ..............  (All so true!)

Favorite camp sites with interesting trees are logged in our camping log book. 

Bonza nights, without street lights

As Camooweal Billabong featured so many different types of birds we went in search of a bird expert to help us identify the different birds.
We couldn't remember precisely the title of a bird expert apart from knowing it started with O; hence ventured into the Camooweal pub in search of an optometrist, ophthalmologist, ornithologist, orthodontist and optimist.
We were not optimistic in finding an expert, thus were not disappointed when we didn't.
Our teeth and eyes are much better though, along with a more positive outlook on life.

Like us, Brolgas need to get their 10,000 steps in each day to maintain fitness

Conjoined Brolgas. 4/legs, 1 neck

Brolga marry for life, do not believe in divorce, dance often, and sing loudly.
They crane their necks for a better view, plus submerge their heads up to about 500mm in mud and reeds.
Brolgas is not a discount petrol station chain.

On then into the Northern Territory, 4270km since leaving home.

Excitement over entering NT or leaving QLD? 

The vastness of the flat plains and huge sky was absolutely breathtaking

Cattle camp on left prior to heading off for a life changing road trip

The scenery and various highlights along the way was ever changing.

Early mono-cycle with training attachment. Circa 1910.

Adelaide Crows on tour in the Northern Territory

Endangered Soudan Bore in security enclosure as protection against predators

Overnighting in Barkly Homestead was like driving into an oasis, with the Homestead a crucial refueling and refreshment opportunity at a T-intersection in the middle of nowhere.
The nearest fuel and civilisation is east to Camooweal at 260km (where we came from); west to Three Ways 187km (where we are heading); and north to Cape Crawford at 385km (maybe next time)

Selfie stick was on full extension to take this photo

Tarmac big enough to land a jumbo.
Despite the name Barkly, no dogs could be heard.

$1.89.90/litre for diesel is understandable and acceptable

Just add water and see the results

Now this is a truck!

Tender carried on back deck

From Barkly Homestead, it was head west to the first on the right in 187km, turn right and proceed 140km further to Renner Springs.

In the interests of driver safety;  bends,  trees,  power poles and pedestrians have been removed

Physical evidence that northern Australia is within striking distance of Chinese Intercontinental Ballistic Missiles.
This one was caught by the steel bracket before it impacted with the ground

Outstanding standingout mural at Three Ways Roadhouse

The iconic Daly Waters Pub made up for the disrepair of the Renner Springs, which is not worth mentioning, hence we won't.
Daly Waters is a stop off point 3km west of the main north south Stuart Highway, and entices almost every vehicle travelling the road.  We enjoyed a brilliant Barra Burger and chips for lunch, and were fascinated by all the different artifacts left by tourists from all over the world.
Hours could have been spent in the pub simply studying pub.

It is surprising what some people leave behind 

Denominations from all over the world with comments added. Notes with notes. 

Entertainment under the flowering thong tree

The movie "We of the Never Never" homestead built for the movie stands at the entrance to the Elsey National Park and Mataranka Homestead Resort. Three glorious nights were spent here.

Absolutely pristine  It all changed when we entered the water covered in red dust. 

Mataranaka Springs flows at the rate of  30.5 million ltrs/day with a temperature of  34C.
This could fill our backyard pool in just 2.5 mins and would see others swimming year round.  

Elsey Homestead of :"We of the Never Never"

Mataranka has been a great place to freshen up, reflect on how the difficult the early settlers had it, plus catch up on cleaning.

Since we had been travelling almost 2 months, we decided to empty out the van and give it a thorough scrub.

Generally north into ever increasing temperatures is our plan. High 20s to low 30s have been the norm, with the humidity being the main noticeable difference.

Wishing everyone well.  Happy travelling in where ever your own travel takes you.
Until next blog,
Cheers, Don and Carrol.

7. Royal Wedding Edition. Top of Queensland heading North West. Almost out of the Sunshine State.

Disappointment was the emotion as we left the main Dinosaur/Fossil area of Australia.
We had gone there following a report of a good surf running on the inland sea.
Apparently the report was 110 million years out of date.  Hence time to move on!

Fossil of Plesiosaur at Richmond QLD.  One of the best in the world at 98% complete.
Possibly due to his extreme age, he was feeling a little flat this day.

Plesiosaur in better days.  Note the distinct lack of inland sea.

The more we travel, the more we realise how much there is to see, and how genuine most people are when time is given for a simple chat.

With every vehicle we pass travelling in the opposite direction, a wave is the accepted norm.  Only a small number do not give the wave, and we feel guilty when concentration on something else  means a driver going the opposite direction does not get a return wave.

Nelia is a dot on the map, 80km west of Richmond, 1km off the highway, and from our research, sported a population of 10, 1 cow, 2 turkeys and 3 steel sculptured Brolgas.

Out on the plain, the Brolgas are rusting .......

In keeping with our policy of trying to do something to support the local trade wherever we go, we walked into the shop at Nelia, after edging past the cow, to by buy an ice-cream.  The shop keeper came racing through her house and welcomed us, as she had seen our van and thought we were going to be the first of the season to stay in her 8 site caravan park backyard. She was happy though that we bought something.  We don't know how often this would have happened with folk turning off a 110km/hour road onto a small non-descript side road.  It is amazing how some places survive.
In a similar situation of slow patronage, Don took a swim on the Sunday and Monday at the immaculate Richmond Pool (knocking over 2500m each swim), but was intrigued to be told that no other swimmer had been along on either day.  The locals find it too cool, so the pool is kept open simply for the occasional tourist.  (Don has been described a lot of things, but never occasional.)

Enquiring about dairy products at Nelia.  Chain saw required for beef products

Live streaming is not restricted to sporting events at Nelia. (Study the photo!)

Ever changing landscapes and counting termite mounds keeps the driver awake; along with the chance to watch the cricket along the way.

Watching the cricket at 98kms/hr.
The cricket hung on for a 30km before pulling stumps and disappearing.

The best free camp in Australia is said to be at Julia Creek, where we decided to stop after the day just seemed to slip away; also after a much appreciated pub meal for lunch after the kitchen had closed and reopened for us.
The camp is on the banks of Julia Creek, by coincidence, the same name as the nearby town.
Camp volunteer hosts were present to register all, give local advice, and lend out colourful pushbikes to ride into town.  Vans have to be self sufficient with shower, toilet and grey water storage capacity. Happy hour saw most on of the travellers gathered under the shade of billabong trees, on the banks of the creek.  Wonderful quick friendships are so often formed under such impromptu settings.
A courtesy bus collects campers on a Monday evening to transport them to the council run caravan park in town for a weekly roast dinner for all who want to buy a great country cooked meal.

Julia Creek free camp. No 1 in Australia

Grenouille pour le dîner 

A quiet reed before breakfast

Since being on the new travel diet, Don had become a shadow of his former self

We have become members of the Cracked Earth Society.  Still haven't found the other thong!

Free use of bikes provided by the council for campers to ride into town and spend money.
Some councils are so pro-active in attracting the tourist dollar.  Others have not got a clue. 

The Dunnart is an endangered marsupial featured in a special display at Julia Creek.  An awareness program is being carried out in order to raise funds for enclosures and to see to their survival in the wild.
On the endangered marsupial menu, if the Bilby as mentioned in BLOG # 4  is the main course, the Dunnart is the entree, measuring only 90mm in total body length.
Dunnarts are incredibly agile little mouse-like marsupials, which despite their small size, travel about 10km a night.  Their main diet are beetles, crickets, cockroaches and spiders.
They dislike cats and foxes.

Endangered Dunnart. Entree size meal on the endangered marsupial menu

Bird life is abundant out west.  Most so different to the coastal varieties.
Black hawks by the dozen are the main birds encountered when driving.  They do a brilliant job in clearing the road kill off the road, and are generally very good in timing their exit from a carcass to avoid the same fate.  Once hit by a car, they can become a fete:

fete Meaning in the Cambridge English Dictionary

https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/fete

fete definition: 1. a public event, often held outside, where you can take part in competitions and buy small things and food, often organized to collect money for a ...

All reads correct for fete as above, except no money is exchanged. The competition comes from other scavengers.

Apostle birds around our campsite  Note there are 12 of them. 

Mum and Dad looking after junior 

Crested Pigeon learning that looking good does not mean an invitation to the banquet with the Apostle birds

A great free camp was enjoyed at Lake Corella where we spent 2 nights off the grid on the shore of the lake in company with some other off the gridders.  We spent our time reading, knitting and tandem riding around the surrounding dirt roads and bush tracks.  The tyre replacement worked well and held together.

Morning view from the west wing

Dam
I have lost my stoker?

Knit one, purl one 

Will he wag tail?

Where is my dinner?  Carrol in the galley.  Off the grid living

Voyeur's view of van and lake

For those interested in statistics on costs of such a holiday as ours, as noted we in BLOG # 1, we are looking at a trip of about 25,000km in 252 days, which equates to 99.2km/day.   By absolute coincidence, at the time of writing, we took note of our mileage and expenses to date based on the number of days and the distance travelled since leaving home.
In summary, we have covered 3790km in 38 days, which is unbeleivably 99.2km/day.  (If only all estimates could be that good!!)
Expenditure on fuel averages under $25/ day, and accommodation runs in under $21/ night (with a mix of caravan parks, low cost, and free camps).  (Not including food etc, as we would be eating wherever we are.)
In other words, after the initial investment of car and van, about $46/ day or $322/ week.
Yet another coincidence is that the 322 bus route runs through Kahibah.

In other news:

               Image 5000 years hence of  Uluru/Ayres Rock

Burke and Wills Memorial.
Don's parents also crossed here back in  May 1993,  25 years to the week earlier than us.

Which tower will stand the test of time? 

Who you gonna call was the question we asked when ourselves when considering whether or not to visit the ghost town of Mary Kathleen.  The town was deserted back in 1984, with all buildings removed leaving only the streets and slabs, shrubs and trees.  It was quite surreal driving through the town.
The water supply for the town came from Lake Corella where we camped the previous two nights.
The town had a population of up to 1200.
Mary Kathleen mine produced about 12000 tonnes of Uranium Oxide, with 31 million tonnes of ore being extracted.
Since visiting Mary Kathleen, we no longer need lighting in the car or van as we both emit a glow which lights up a 450m radius.

Entrance to Mary Kathleen

Curb and guttering, footpaths, slabs; and no crowd

Trevi Fountain in the outback

Photo of same fountain dating back to the 50s or 60s 

Road maintenance priority is similar to Lake Macquarie

Reasonably high clearance is a must

What a shock after the tranquility of the bush!
The City of Mount Isa is the 8th largest city in the world, covering an area in excess of 43,000km, with Camooweal 190km away, giving the longest main street between suburbs.
In the lead up to arriving here, radio ads were giving advice on using special cloths to wipe up lead dust from the mining and smelting, as well as washing pets before allowing them inside the house etc. Sounds like Sulphide Corporation and BHP issues all being relived again, simply relying on a good dusting cloth to remedy.
Incidentally, we counted 7 primary schools in the Mt Isa.  This reflects the substantial number on minors in town.

Ah the serenity of the outback

Mt Isa barber shop advertising pole

The town borders up against the mine

There are some positive aspects to living in Mount Isa.

We note we are closer to the equator than to Hobart. 
This is due to northerly continental drift and Tasmania being cast adrift once more.

Lake Moondarra.  Water supply for the Isa

Incognito Meghan Markle and Prince Harry sharing a pre-wedding getaway down-under
(Their trip no doubt a tax deduction due to visiting the Royal Flying Doctor Service and RSPCA)  

Puff breasted whistling duck swimming on thickly reeded billabong

Migrating salt water crocodile showing severe signs of stress due to too much lead dust and not enough salt water 

The Underground WW2 hospital adjacent to the current hospital was quite astounding.  We had a cupper with a lovely volunteer manning, or womanning the display to share her vast knowledge.
It would be great if work for the dole or such schemes could encourage younger folk to become involved.  This would have a two pronged advantage; helping  promote and preserve such valuable icons of the past; as well as giving the aide something very worthwhile for a resume' and  future employer.

Mt Isa WW2 underground hospital

Note the selection of bed pans.
We have followed suit and have discarded the chemical toilet for these. 

Much of the timber is original, even in the supports and roof timbers

Nurse shortages were evident. 

We have changed somewhat in recent days, much like a pregnant lady, as we  are glowing and increasing weight.
The glowing from the radiation of Mary Kathleen and the weight from the lead fall-out from Mt Isa.
We will however, before leaving Mt Isa, be decked out in our best camping gear for the Royal wedding, provided Harry and Meghan manage to get back to the UK in time for the event.

This is worth committing to memory 

Just before we go:

There was movement at the station, for the word had passed around 

This way or that?

As the sun sets on Lake Moondarra and this blog ............

It is now time to head along the longest suburban street in the world, 190km to the outer suburb of Camooweal, before taking on the Northern Territory.

Keep well.
Cheers, Don and Carrol